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Two, Baking with Beer
Malt is a miracle for bakers -
But it's really malt that's the miracle of modern baking. Diastatic
malt powder or barley malt extracts are often used in professional
bakeries to add nutrition, improve crumb texture and appearance, and
enhance the keeping quality of the finished loaves. Breads that require
second rises (pumpernickel, rye and other hearth breads) can benefit
from a dose.
That's because professional bakers evaluate bread by many characteristics
beyond flavor and freshness. Breads are judged by their volume, symmetry,
crust color, crust crispness, break and shred, grain, texture, aroma
and mouth feel. Many bakers agree that adding malt to bread dough
will contribute to yeast baking success.
Susanne Stoeger-Moore, director of food sales for Briess Malts, Chilton,
WI, explains how diastatic malt differs from the malt extract formulated
for homebrewers. "Diastatic malt contains natural enzymes, mainly
amylases and proteases. This type of malt acts as a dough conditioner
(for example, a bucky pizza dough will relax, roll out and not shrink
up badly during baking)." In addition, the amylase also breaks down
starch down into sugars, which helps feed the yeast and aids in browning.
The proteases break the proteins in the flour down into amino acids,
which also spurs yeast growth, as well as improving the flavor and
aroma in breads.
Malt extract is made from diastatic malt...so it also contains natural
sugars to feed the yeast and aid in browning as well. Extract also
contains amino acids. It does not have any enzyme activity and contributes
more natural sweet malt notes which are wonderful in hearth breads.
Just replace a tablespoon of sugar or sweetener in your favorite bread
recipe with a half-teaspoon of diastatic malt powder, or two tablespoons
of malt extract. Add malt extract to the warm water used to dissolve
the yeast, stir till blended, and mix it into the dough for the first
rise.
Non-diastatic malt is added simply as a sweetener. With that in mind,
be sure to use unhopped malt extract. Eden Natural Foods makes a food-grade
unhopped amber malt extract as a sugar replacement. Packaged in a
re-sealable jar, the product is more convenient for baking than opening
a can of homebrew extract pre-measured to make a five-gallon batch
of beer. You can find diastatic malt powder at baking supply stores
or through the Baker's Catalogue (800-827-6836, or online at www.KingArthurFlour.com).
But beware of adding too much malt extract or diastatic malt powder,
since the increased yeast activity can cause problems. As homebrewers
know, carbon dioxide and alcohol are the normal byproducts of yeast
metabolism. Though alcohol is delightful in beer, it is less so in
dough. The bread will be "overproofed," a baker's term that translates
into gummy, sticky dough that's difficult to handle, and upon baking,
yields a loaf that smells of alcohol, with a dense, unpalatable crust.
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