Coquette Cafe, Milwaukee
it's the curling coiffure or the curved lips, but the face that smiles
up from the menu of Coquette Cafe in Milwaukee befits the name.
chef-owner Sandy D'Amato, (right), and local brewer Russ Klisch, (pictured
below on the left), dreamed up the concoction known as Rendezvous
Ale, just for Coquette.
Milwaukee had its share of house beers, mass-market lagers lurking
under another label, another name. But Coquette needed a beer that
was more than a contract brew - it was a style rendered just for the
restaurant, an American's version of a French ale suited to a true
farmers in northwest France, always made their own strong summer ales,
quenching and refreshing, but robust enough to match the full-bodied
fare of a brasserie. Thus, bieres de garde were brewed for the first
harvest, and made strong enough to continue to ferment for several
months - even through summer heat. Some French biere de garde such
as Jenlain ales are extremely potent, more than 6 percent ABV.
in at a more decorous 5.8 percent ABV, the Rendezvous Ale is a hybrid
of malty richness and enough hops acidity (Brewer's Gold, Tradition)
to cut through the strong flavors of roasted lapin au moutarde, or
a burly beef steak frites.
Klisch and Sandy D'Amato enjoyed their research, tasting a wide range
of beer styles and brands. "I wanted to create a beer with a
lively malt character to accent our food," says D'Amato, adding,
"the biere du garde style was just a perfect fit for the brasserie."
Coquette Café, 316 N. Milwaukee St., Milwaukee,
WI (414) 291-2655
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